We’re all friends here, right? Well, I hope so because I’m about to get personal. I’m talking belly and butt shots, so I apologize in advance :).
For the last couple of weeks I’ve been working on fitting my Clovers. I’ve come a long way in how I approach fitting issues. I used to get frustrated, cursing and sighing to no end. But now I see fitting issues as my opportunity to take up the challenge and problem solve. With that new approach I’ve been genuinely enjoying trying to perfect this trouser fit. Fitting them is the first step I am taking in a route that will end with me-made stretch jeans. I’d like to have a few pairs of trousers under my belt (ha!) before I give jeans a go.
I started with size 18, making no adjustments. From the photos of muslin 1, I assessed that I needed a full butt adjustment. I also didn’t like where the waist sat so I decided I wanted to raise it higher. And because the pants looked a wee bit baggy around the hips and knees I decided to go down a size, which actually happens to correspond with my hip measurement.
To determine how much I needed to increase the back crotch circumference by, I measured my crotch circumference and compared it to the pattern’s. I’m not sure if that’s what I’m suppose to do but I figured some trial and error never hurt anyone. I came up with a 1.5 inch difference and added it to the back pattern piece using Colette’s recommended full butt adjustment method:
Here are the changes made to the size 16 pattern pieces: 1.5 inches added to back pattern, 2 inches added to waist, and waist raised up 2 inches. The fit was definitely improving. I just had a baggy issue to contend with now…
In order to remove the excess fabric I decided to increase the crotch depth by 2.25 inches and take in the inseams a further 1/2 inch. It seemed to do the job but I think for the final pair I will go with a 1.25 inch increase instead. I felt like the crotch was a tiny bit low.
I’m happy to say that my trouser fitting progress is going pretty well. The side seams bow towards the front but I think I am okay with that…for now. But am still questioning if I analyzed one of the fit issues correctly. I definitely think I needed a full butt adjustment. Big butts don’t lie. But was there another way to get rid of the bagginess other than increasing the crotch depth and inseam? Just curious.