A top and a bottom

Summer is drawing to a close and of course I decide now to (sorta) finish my cropped Clovers. But it’s all good because I finally completed a pair of wearable ones and they went from this to this…

These pants didn’t come easy. I did a full waist adjustment, a full butt adjustment, a knock knee adjustment (who knew?!), raised the waist, and added a bit of crotch circumference and depth. Phew. The knock knee adjustment left me with some bagginess around the calves (I have chicken legs, y’all. No joke!).

But I wasn’t fussed (not now anyway) about fixing it or the few lines under my butt. I was too happy to share that I had sorted out the drag lines in the inner thigh area.

Although I feel as though I’ve made a decent pair of Clovers I definitely will revisit the pattern and try to fix the last few issues it has. I do enjoy solving fitting issues. Having broken this project up over months has made it a lot less stressful. So thankfully I still have my wits about me.

But I do have one last issue to add. I am unsure if it’s the pattern or the fabric. After wearing the Clover for about 10 minutes I was suffering from droopy crotch. What the heck? The fabric I used is very light stretch denim. Should I use something a bit thicker? I cut a size 16, which corresponds to my hip measurement. I wonder if I should have cut a size 14? Or maybe I need to adjust the pattern somehow to make them stay up? Oh pattern fitting, you can drive a girl to drink…

Upward and onward…Recognize this little top? It’s this summer’s very popular Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank (with no pocket). I held back from buying it, thinking I didn’t need such a simple pattern. Oh how wrong was I? I really truly love the fit. All I had to do was readjust the darts and bam, perfection.

I used some African wax cotton that really dresses up the top. And boy, I’m in love. I’ve already decided to make a few more since they’ll make great layering pieces for fall.

Now back to the sewing table. I’m really looking forward to sharing my next project. Until then, ciao!

Oh! And sorry about all the butt photos. They are unavoidable when showing trouser fitting results

Loving Ava

Yes, I know. I am looking a bit smug. But I’ve been in quite the sewing drought and it feels so good to have it over. I cut out the Ava pattern back in June, I think. And it sat in a drawer until I finally decided to put it together last week.

And I am so glad I did. Initially I thought I was dragging my feet so much because I wasn’t in love with the fabric I chose. But that wasn’t it. The more I thought about it, the more I wished I had used a lovely Liberty tana lawn I’ve had in my stash for ages. Fear of cutting into such pricey fabric made me hesitate. Enter the mustard fabric. At £2 or so a meter cutting into it didn’t feel so hard. But I fell out of love for it and so it went neglected. But with a meetup coming up I figured it would be the perfect event to finish Ava so I could wear it to. And I did. Just in time.

I struggled putting in that mesh. Man, oh, man. It took three attempts, two hours and a lunch break. But finally it went in and I was so glad that I had saved my Liberty fabric from so much seam ripping

The fit (only change I made was to add a couple of inches at the waist) is pretty good. Next time I might drop where the bodice and peplum meet by half an inch. For all that feet dragging I sure love my top and look forward to the next one.

Vintage Simplicity 4212: A grading success story

My newest blouse is easily by far my best sewing achievement. I almost cried with happiness when I finished the last stitches without any big hiccup. I really worked hard to get this blouse right. During some past attempts at grading I would miss a step and without any proper notes written I usually started again from scratch. Not with this blouse. Oh no…I took notes in a sewing designated notebook.

For my muslin I did the following changes to the pattern, a bust size 40:

1. Added 1 inch to each seam to the back and front bodice pieces (4 inches in total added)
2. Added 1/4 inch to sleeve cap and 1 inch to sleeve width

For my final version I changed the following:

1. Moved the shoulder seam back by 2 inches
2. Shaved off 2 inches from the bodice armscye
3. Lengthened the bodice by 2 inches
4. Left out the lace.

I am quite the happy bunny with this blouse. I love the fit and would love to give myself a medal for proving to myself that I really can make a well-fitting blouse. I had doubts, y’all!

The fabric is a cotton-silk blend purchased on Goldhawk Road during the Fabric Fandango meetup. I first wore my blouse on Me-Made-May Day 27, also my handsome husband’s birthday.

Maybe I lucked out with my calculations and construction but I think I am sold on vintage patterns. The blouse is so feminine and complimentary. And the construction wasn’t as complicated as I imagined it being. I’ve since added a couple to my pattern collection.

Me-Made-May Day 26

This post is brought to you by the power of Past Me who scheduled a future post for right now. A bit mind-numbing, huh? Well, I am currently here…

Photo Credit: YesRoanoke.com

…celebrating my 10th college (aka university) reunion! A full week of shenanigans and debauchery. Oh, who am I kidding. I bet I will be in bed sound asleep every night after 2 cocktails. But I can dream.

Anyhow…On MMM Day 26 I wore my first Sorbetto. A sheer one that I don’t wear too often because, well, I forgot about it.

I wore it to bake and cook all day in the kitchen, prepping for my husband’s birthday get-together the following day.

Past Me will be back here tomorrow to bring you the latest MMM outfits. And please, please forgive me if I haven’t been commenting on blogs. I’ve been reading them on my phone, which makes it hard to comment. I’ll be back to replying and commenting when I get back in a week.

I don’t drink (hot) tea nor do I eat mustard…

…but I will wear them.

Tea dyed crochet trim with mustard shirting. Perfect combo.

The Jasmine pattern came together pretty fast and easy. There’s not much to say about the construction except that I’m sad I didn’t bother grading the pattern up (like usual). I assumed because the pieces were cut on the bias the shirt would have enough give. Silly, Mela. Silly, silly, silly.

Loving the trim, not the wrinkly bust

But I do love how it came out. The crochet trim is a great way to go. So glad I followed in the steps of Miss Patty Snug Bug. I’d love to make another (that fits properly) in a yummy silk. Just like Patty. Have I mentioned how much I love her style? Cause I do.

Colette Negroni Shirt muslin

¡Ay yai yai!

It was by sheer determination that I put the Negroni shirt together. If this project wasn’t for my honey I would have been so be okay with putting it aside and trying again in the future. But I was determined for him to wear it on our anniversary so I kept my eye on the prize and soldiered on.

Attaching the facing/yoke piece was a force to be reckoned with. I attached it and unpicked it three times. I looked online for help but couldn’t find any visual aid. Instead I read how easily the shirt came together for others. I so disagreed. But I had to remind myself that I can’t compare myself to other sewists. Our skills set vary. And I am such a visual learner. Not being able to see how the facing/yoke was meant to attach drove me batty! When I FINALLY sewn it on correctly I couldn’t remember how! Oy. Here’s hoping I have muscle memory for the final version.

The sleeves? I’ve never attached sleeves before this project. I attached and unpicked one sleeve six times! Yes. Six! The second sleeve? Only once. What was the problem? My fabric didn’t have a wrong side and I never indicated a side as one. Duh, Mela. DUH.

An addition to my frustrations came from the cheap, craptastic fabric I used for the test garment. It kept fraying and it would not hold a press for long. Folds seemed to disappear in a matter of minutes. Hopefully the shirting fabric will make the sewing process go a lot easier next time.

So here’s the shirt that I almost lit on fire on G.

The pocket placement is off. Initially I wasn’t sure and asked a few people and everyone agreed that it has to be lowered and moved to the (my) right.

All in all I think the shirt fits pretty well but I am still unsure. I cut G a size medium and it fits him like a glove. Maybe too much so? Although there’s no strain anywhere (or is there strain and my beginner’s eyes fail me?) I can’t help but compare how the Negroni fits on G versus the Negroni fits on other men. I found that the shirt appeared to have a bit more ease on the other men. I am tempted to add a smidgen more, maybe an inch overall. I haven’t decided yet. But what I do know is that I can’t wait to see how the shirt looks in fashion fabric.

*no photos of the bottom half since I didn’t bother to hem it.

Sorbetto, I love you

In between measuring and cutting fabric for my B5605 I whipped up another Sorbetto, sans pleat. I’m loving it so I am going to wear it today on a walk. I mean, why not?

Feeling a bit paisley

And good news! No, the Butterick patterns are still missing…but my Colette patterns arrived safely. I figured they would but I was still nervous. Oh happy day!

Colette Sorbetto top completed!

I completed quite a few sewing firsts while making the Sorbetto:

1. I made my own bias tape. I thought I had enough store-bought bias tape but I was wrong. So I ordered a bias tape maker and it arrived this afternoon. Luckily,  I had already started cutting out my strips and was ready to finish up the top within an hour. I followed Colette Patterns tutorial. Next time I might try making continuous bias tape. Might save a bit of time.
2. I sewed darts. Not as painful as I imagined. Maybe it was luck
3. I attached bias tape. I didn’t have a clue as to how to do it. I looked up a few sources and ended up going with Colette Patterns tutorial because they are so clear and have great instructional photos.

I’m really glad I tried out some new sewing techniques while using such a great pattern. The instructions were easy to follow and great for any beginner. I definitely recommend it. And it’s free. What’s better than free? Without further ado…my Sorbetto.

I will definitely wear a tank/vest top under this. Looks so delicate. I love it.

Neckline, bias tape details

Sleeve, bias tape details

Sorbetto, full length view

Looking forward to taking some photos of me in it…It’s so darn cute. I will definitely make a couple of more.

Swiss dots no more

Who knew you have to wash Swiss dot fabric on delicate? Not me…and it shows

No worries. I am womaning up and going forward with the Sorbetto top. The fabric still looks cute sans dots.

To be continued…

Sis Boom Ba!

Finally finished the Sis Boom Dana Top pattern I bought from Etsy. I had a very hard time with the neckline and zig-zag stitching. I stitched and unstitched it several times in hopes of getting it right. Unfortunately I have several little puncture holes in the ruffles. Hoping, maybe, they’ll go away a bit when I wash it. After changing needles and playing with the tension the zig-zag stitching came out a bit better. Not amazing but a lot better. Here is me in the finished top.

I definitely have to take it in. It fits me a bit wide. I knew it might be. When it came to picking a size I preferred going a size up rather than down. I figured it would be much easier to take it in. I think I will also re-do the hem. It puckered a bit. You can see it a bit in the right hand side of the photo.

So, will I make this pattern again? Yes…in due time. I think I need to put some time between me and this pattern. Not sure if it was meant for someone a bit more skilled. I’ll give it another go once I make a few more pieces. I’d love to have it in a turquoise color, and shorter.

Next up? I think I will give the Port Elizabeth pattern a go. It’s free on Burda Style. Take a look if you’re interested in making a light summer top.

Until next time!