…and I think I got it. I blame Marie and her beautiful Ginger skirts.
I initially made a denim Ginger, size 18, with hopes to fit into it in a month or so. Well…I want to wear one NOW. I wasn’t sure how to go about getting the right fit but after asking in the Colette forum I was pointed in the right direction: grading. I decided to bite the bullet, forget my grading issues with the Rooibos dress and try grading up the Ginger skirt…THREE WHOLE SIZES.
I held my Fit for Real People book for quite a while, hoping to get the info in me through osmosis. No go. So I cracked it open and found the slash and spread method would be my best bet.
I had to add *blush* five inches overall. I was dealing with 2 skirt pattern pieces that required to be cut twice to get 4 skirt pieces. So 5in./4=1.25 in. that I spread equally among three slashes on each skirt pattern. I did the same to the waistband.
And you know what? It freaking worked. No crazy amount of muslins made. Just one muslin and one skirt. I have to be honest, though. I didn’t use any of my good quality fabric. Even though the muslin fit I was a bit nervous (Rooibos, you burned me real bad) about using anything other than some poly-cotton. Aside from it not feeling amazing, the skirt came out great. My husband wasn’t home to take any photos of me wearing it so you’ll have to bear with the one I took myself.
Looking forward to making another. I’d love one in corduroy with pockets.
Can you believe that I am still stuck on the muslin part of the sew-along? I am. I blame my inexperience. I’ve never made a dress so I am learning about fit, new techniques and pattern adjustments all at once. I’ve made three bodices and one full dress and none fit right.
How many muslins will it take? Hmm...
So here’s the deal…My measurements are 46.5/43/47. Size 18 measures 46/38/48. I added 1/2 in. to the back and front, allowing the extra 1/2 in. for wiggle room. I added the needed inches for my waist at the midriff pieces (was this wrong?) and center and back skirt pieces. Here’s the dilemma: I can’t find a source that will help me figure out how I can get the bodice, midriff and skirt to match up. The midriff and skirt are way too wide for the bodice and I can’t seem to figure out how to grade the pieces to fit.
Forgetting about the midriff/skirt issue I did an FBA today, hoping that would take away the need to add the 1/2 in. to the bodice. The darts were way too low on the muslin. The bodice didn’t fit me nearly as well as the others. But maybe I did the FBA wrong? Or perhaps I can adjust the darts and make the bodice. work? Who knows? I don’t at this point. I am considering putting this project aside until I get some more experience under my belt or I have my ‘EUREKA’ moment and figure/find/am told the solutions to my problems. I don’t want to butcher any more fabric, to be honest.
(But on a happy note my long lost patterns have made their way back to the States and are now heading back to me at the right address. Happy happy, joy joy.)
I jumped at the chance to join in on the Colette Rooibos Sew-Along. Of course I didn’t let the fact that I have yet to make a dress deter me. I figured I’d make a muslin and learn as I go. Well…I am very, very glad I did a muslin. I cut an 18 (the biggest size) but I had to add some inches in the bodice (2″) and the waist (3.5″). I added them at the seams and now I wonder if that was a correct method. The skirt was too wide and I’ll have to scale it back for the next trial. Because the skirt was too wide for the bodice the fabric gathered as I tried to sew them together.
Gathered fabric in the back and at the seam
Check out these wonky pockets. So embarrassed.
If you squint the pockets are leveled
The back is such a nightmare.
I am left with these questions: Should I grade the patterns up a size (up to a 20) so the bodice and skirt match? Or would adding the inches at the seam equally to the bodice and waist fix the gathered fabric problem?